Problems and Solutions
Definition:
Swelling of the fresh applied layer.
Causes:
1. to long aeration time when the work is done with wet on wet products.
2. Repainting solvent sensitive paints (thermoplastic acrylics) with products that are not indicated.
3. Paints applied as isolation are applied in thick layers or are polished to deep.
How it can be avoided:
1. Respect the recommended aeration (do not leave to much time between).
2. Make a solvent test before applying the products and use the recommended materials to the right thickens of the layer..
3. Apply the products to the recommended thickness of the layer.
Definition:
Slow evaporation of the solvent (sweat) from the fresh applied paint layer.
This makes the paint layer sweat so reduces the luster or the outline.
Causes:
1. Insufficient dryness between the layers in case of complete painting or applying of the filler in big layers.
2. Applying the filling materials in to big layers
3. Swelling the solvents sensitive substrates.
4. Put into the filler or putty a wrong quantity of hardener.
How it can be avoided:
1. Always respect the thickness of the layers and the recommended aeration time.
2. Make a solvent test before applying. Apply the filler in normal layers with aeration time between to create isolation to the solvent sensitive substrate. Do not apply putty on old solvent sensitive paint.
3. Respect the mixing ratio.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish all the affected area and rebuild the system with right products.
Definition:
On wet weather, a small quantity of vapors is absorbed by the paint layer and it is evaporated in the drying process.
If the filler is not well processed it will leave salts. These salts will cause a local concentration of salts solution witch will afterwards penetrate the paint layer taking a blistering form. These blisters may appear under different dimensions and in different places.
Causes:
1. The surfaces that will be painted are not proper cleaned. Contamination with salts, sweat, and dirty water from the wet polishing were let on the painted area or between layers.
2. The wet polishing that hasn’t got sufficient time left for evaporating the water before applying the paint.
3. Weather conditions from the painting cabin during the painting process.
How it can be avoided:
1. Clean very well the surfaces before painting it with clean water. Change regularly the water in the wet polishing process. Try as much as you can to dry polish.
2. Leave sufficient time for the water to evaporate (approximately 2 hours on 20°C) when you wet polish Try as much as you can to dry polish mostly on polyester putties.
3. Make sure that the cabin is dry before painting.
On wet and cold weather dry the cabin before starting painting.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish and totally remove the damage until you reach the layer where it first appeared. Remake the painting system (primer, filler, paint).
Definition:
Bleeding represents staining or leaking of a pigment from the previous substrate in the superior layer. It is seen as a mark or pallor in the paint layer (most often in red or yellow).
The excess of peroxidic hardener in the polyester putty may cause this problem because of the reaction with the paint pigments.
Causes:
1. Soluble pigments from the old paint are dissolved by the solvent from the new paint.
2. Staining may appear when the excess of the peroxides hardener from the polyester products react with the pigments from the other products producing some brown- yellow marks. The blue and green colors are vulnerable to this phenomenon.
3. Bitum and gudron resides on the surfaces.
How it can be avoided:
1. Make a solvent test on the old paint to check if there are soluble pigments.
2. Respect the indicated mixing ratio for the hardener and mix until is completely hhomogeneous with the putty.
3. Before painting be sure that the surface is cleaned of contamination with bitum or gudron.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
To repair the problem the surface has to be isolated with an intermediary product applied as isolation. If the dots are deep the surface has to be polished until the substrate where it appeared and repaint the whole system with the right materials.
Definition:
The substrate is visible trough the applied layer.
Causes:
1. For some shades the indicated colored intermediary layer was not applied (Undercoat).
2. The paint was over-diluted.
3. The paint is applied in layers to thick.
4. The based colors are not enough mixed.
How it can be avoided:
1. Always apply the colored intermediary layer (undercoat) indicated n the recipe.
2. Respect the dilution ratio.
3. Apply the recommended thickness of the layer.
4. Mix the base colors before preparing the paint.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
After drying will be polished and repainted.
Causes:
1. Slow evaporation of the solvent from the anterior paint layer.
2. Apply the paint in to big layers.
3. Atmosphere conditions (the action of sulfur dioxide , nitrous oxide in combination with atmospheric humidity or UV radiation).
4. Wrong quantity of hardener in 2K paints.
5. Wrong treatment after painting:
5. 1. Wrong polishing (to aggressive polish or sun polish).
5. 2. Washing with worn or harsh brushes.
5. 3. Agresiv washing liquid.
6. Removing the painted car too early in the environment. The fresh paint applied in big layers is sensitive to the humidity from air.
7. Insufficient ventilation during the painting process or during the drying process.
How it can be avoided:
1. See ‘’low evaporation’’.
2. Apply the paint in the right thickness.
3. Pay attention to the atmospheric factors.
4. Respect the mixing ratio.
5. See chapter ‘’after painting’’.
6. Respect the drying time and the recommended thickness of the layer.
7. Check the air circulation from the painting cabin and filters.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Try to polish the area. If this solution does not work repaint it.
The weak adherence can manifest in 2 ways:
1. All the system is detached;
2. Weak adherence occurs only between layers.
Causes:
1. Substances that can cause poor adhesion are left on the surface (silicon, oil, fats, protecting wax).
2. Applying a primer or an improper filer.
3. Insufficient polish on the surface.
4. The primer or the paint where applied in to thin layers.
5. Dying in bad conditions.
How it can be avoided:
To avoid the lack of adherence on the surface you have to respect the following conditions:
1. Use the recommended primer or filler for the substrate.
2. Apply the products following the technical indications.
3. Clean and degrease the surfaces before any product applying.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Remove complete the layers with low adherence. Polish and degrees the surfaces.
Repaint the surface using the proper products.
Definition:
Blisters caused by penetration of the solvent from the bottom layer in the superior layer.
Causes:
1. Thick layers.
2. Too fast hardener or thinner.
3. Too short aeration time between layers.
4. Too long aeration time before drying with infrared lamp.
5. Insufficient distance between the painted surface and the IR lamp.
6. Too short aeration time when are used products with applying process wet/wet.
How it can be avoided:
1. Respect the recommended thickness of the layer.
2. Use the recommended hardener and thinner taking into consideration the working temperature.
3. Leave the recommended aeration time between layers.
4. Leave the recommended aeration time before IR drying.
5. Keep the right distance to the surface when you IR dry.
6. Leave the recommended aeration time between layers.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
For resolving this issue you must polish until you reach the layer where it appeared and afterwards repaint it.
If the small blisters are not completely removed they will produce stings when the next layer of paint will be applied.
Definition:
Small stings or craters on the fresh applied paint as result of the solvent blisters that weren’t completely removed from the old paint.
Causes:
Solvent blisters present on the substrate on which the paint is applied.
How it can be avoided:
You can polish and remove or stopper.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
The stings are repaired trough polishing the surface or by filling them by applying filling products.
Definition:
Circular craters with diameters from 0.5 mm to 3 mm.
Causes:
The main cause is the presence on the surface of some substances as: oil, fats, wax or silicon.
These substances can come from:
1. Persons – stains from the working clothing’s, stains from the gloves, hair lotions, and sweat.
2. Painting cabin: – lubricant oils from certain components, substances for treatment for plastic parts, sealants, dirt from the cabin floor.
3. Paint – Using improperly the silicon remover additives, transport or storage.
4. Car parts – Residues from the plastic parts treatment agents, oil from sealants?products, welding smoke.
5. Tools and auxiliary products- improper degreaser, adhesives from the masking tape.
6. Environment – exhaust gases, welding smoke, dust from sealant materials from construction.
How it can be avoided:
Using in and near the painting cabin only products without silicon, cleaning and degreasing the surfaces that will be painted.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish until you reach the layer in which the crater appeared and repaint it.
Definition:
Traces of parallel scratches visible especially on darker colors. The area may lose the luster.
Causes:
1. Manual or automatic washing with brushes too rough or badly worn.
2. Pre-wash to dry or with too little water.
3. The car was washed to soon after painting it.
How it can be avoided:
1. Use normal brushes when you wash the car.
2. Wet thoroughly before washing the car.
3. Avoid washing the car immediately after painting the car.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish scratches with abrasive polish and after with luster polish.
Definition:
Decomposition of the painted surface binders leads to fading of the pigments from the paint. This transforms red and yellow into whitish and bleu in bronze.
Causes:
1. Using an improper hardener or the wrong quantity.
2. The paint layer applied to thick.
3. The action of external factors (pollution with sulfa dioxide or azoth oxides in combination with high humidity).
4. Improper treatment after painting process.
5. Incomplete repair of a previous coating.
How it can be avoided:
1. Always use the recommended quantity of hardener.
2. Apply the recommended thickness of the layer.
3. Protect the car from harmful external factors.
4. Do not submit the freshly painted surfaces at harsh treatments.
5. Make sure that the anterior coating was completely removed by polish until you reach the layer in witch it appeared.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Try to polish with abrasive polish the surface and after with luster polish.?If it doesn’t help or if the problem appears again after few weeks then it must be removed by polishing until you reach the layer where it first appeared then repaint it.
Definition:
Total removal of the entire paint.
Causes:
1. Incomplete cleaning of the plastic substrate.
2. Incomplete polishing to create adherence.
3. Using an improper degreaser.
4. The plastic piece was not tempered before painting.
5. It wasn’t used any primer used for adherence.
How it can be avoided:
1. Wash the car part with water and detergent to remove only water soluble substances. Degrease to remove the soluble contamination in solvent.
2. Polish with the recommended abrasive always before applying.
3. Use only the indicated degreaser.
4. Tempering is the operation of “removal” of the substances form the plastic surface trough heating (1-2 hours at 60°C). The plastic parts with porous surfaces have to be tempered in order to remove from the plastic material the treatment agents that entered in the pores during the treatment process. This problem may appear for the PUR plastics. Clean the plastic surface with degreaser before and after tempering.
5. Always use adherence primer for plastic.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Remove completely the peeled paint and repaint the hole system properly. Do not use solvent for removing the paint. It may destroy the plastic surface.
Definition:
Cracks in forms of lines under the paint layer.
Causes:
1. In the paint that was applied on the spoiler wasn’t introduced elastic additive.
2. The thickness of the whole system is to big.
How it can be avoided:
1. Use elastic additive when you apply the paint for plastic parts (see the technical data sheet).
2. Keep the recommended thickness for each product.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Remove if possible the paint trough polish and after remake the painting system.
Do not remove the paint from the plastic parts with aggressive solvents (may destroy the plastic).
Definition:
Small holes in the paint due to the pores of the plastic surfaces.
Causes:
Defects in manufacturing of the plastic parts.
How it can be avoided:
Check carefully the plastic surfaces before painting.
Definition:
Leaks of paint freshly applied.
Causes:
1. Too small viscosity of the paint.
2. The car part that will be painted is to cold (wasn’t conditioned before painting).
3. Paint applied in a big layer.
4. Too many layers applied.
5. Too short aeration time between layers.
6. Painting distance to small.
7. The spray gun nozzle is too big.
8. Deficient painting technique.
How it can be avoided:
1. Keep the viscosity of the paint for applying it.
2. Apply the paint on the car parts that where conditioned (the car part has the temperature of the environment).
3. Respect the painting distance as well as the recommended nozzle for each product.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Removing leaks is made trough abrasive polishing or by sanding.
Definition:
It’s the effect in witch a color may appear in different shades depending on the light. The most often case is when 2 colors mach in the day light but are not the same in an artificial light.
Causes:
1. The pigment from the prepared paint is not the same with the original one from the car.
2. Preparing the paint different then by the recipe process without checking the color under divers light sources.
3. Shading the applied paint with paste that doesn’t exist in the original recipe.
How it can be avoided:
1. When you prepare a new paint that is not in the recipe you have to check this phenomena trough tests and colorimetric measurements.
2. Check all the shades that are in the recipe with divers light sources.
3. Make shading only with the recipe pastes.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Small metamerism effects can be resolved trough blend-in or lost process.
Definition:
The aspect of the paint at the surface is similar with the orange peel.
Causes:
1. Painting distance is to be.
2. Low pressure for painting.
3. Too small thickness of the layer.
4. Too high viscosity (to diluted paint).
5. The hardener and/or the thinner are to fast for the applying conditions and for the surface that will be painted.
6. The spray gun nozzle is too small.
7. To big aeration time between layers.
How it can be avoided:
1. Keep the recommended painting distance.
2. Paint at the right pressure.
3. Always apply full layers.
4. Keep the recommended viscosity in applying the product.
5. Choose the right hardener for the painting conditions and the surface of the car parts that will be painted.
6. Use the recommended nozzle for the spray gun.
7. Leave the recommended aeration time.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
If the defect is minor the surface has to be polished.
If the defect is major polish and repaint the surface.
Definition:
Edging visible in the final paint around the surfaces where was applied the putty or the filler.
Causes:
1. Insufficient drying of the filler or putty.
2. Softening of the layer applied on the encounter area between the old paint from the car and the filler.
3. Not corresponding paint system applied on the thermoplastic acrylic paints or nitrocellulose paints.
4. Surfaces polished until reaching the tin, that weren’t isolated correspondingly before applying the paint and lacquer.
5. Polyester putty applied on the old paint in thick layer.
How it can be avoided:
1. Respect the recommended drying time. Drying with IR lamps reduces the risk of appearing of the edgings because of the drying process (from the tin surface to the last layer).
2. Before starting the reparation make a solvent test (with nitro or acrylic solvent) to check the sensitiveness of the old paint to the solvent substance.
On polishing make sure you respect the granulation of the polish for polishing the substrate before applying the next product:
• P80/150 – for putty
• P240 – for primer/filler.
3. Apply the filler layer that does not contain solvent in big quantity in thin layer for isolating the solvent sensitive surfaces.
4. Built the right painting system: putty -filler-paint-lacquer.
5. Do not apply polyester putty in thick layers on the old paint. Apply putty only on clean tin and leave a margin of the tin cleaned until you reach the old paint.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish the surface and paint it properly.
Definition:
Cracks of different sizes, depths and widths.
Causes:
1. Using polyester putties, wash primers, synthetic enamels directly on TPA paints (acrylic thermoplastic).
2. It wasn’t added hardener in the 2 K products.
3. Was applied polyester putty on a wash primer.
4. Aggressive drying with UV lamps- big temperature fluctuation.
5. To short aeration time on applying the products wet-on wet.
6. The film thickness of the applied paint system is to high.
How it can be avoided:
1. Do not apply polyester putties or reactive primers as washing primers over the TPA paints.
2. Respect the mixing ratio for the 2 K products.
3. Do not apply polyester putty on washing primer.
4. Respect user instruction of the UV lamps.
5. leave the recommended aeration time.
6. Respect the recommended film thickness.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish until you reach the substrate in witch the defect appeared and remake the system.
Definition:
The applied paint surface is textured with irregularities. This defect appears when the final paint dries faster then the ones applied under it. It appears mostly in the presence of synthetic enamels.
Causes:
1. Synthetic enamel applied in layers to thick.
2. It wasn’t added siccative solution in the synthetic enamel.
3. Unfavorable drying conditions (to high temperature).
How it can be avoided:
1. Respect the recommended number of layers and film thickness.
2. Assure that the siccative solution will be added in the recipe.
3. Dry in the optima temperature, not to high.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
For small defects dry properly the painted surface, polish until you reach the perfectly hardened layer and the repaint it.
For big defects you remove the whole painting system and after remake it properly.
Definition:
Polish traces from the anterior layer.
Causes:
1. The anterior layer was polished with a bigger granulation then the used one. The formed scratch is to deep to be covered with the product applied over it.
2. The drying time of the fillers wasn’t respected. This makes visible the traces of polish during the application of the final paint because of softening of the filer layer. Afterwards will appear the edging of the surface in the drying time.
3. The filler was applied in a thin layer for covering the scratches.
4. Not respecting he polishing steps or an improper polishing technique.
How it can be avoided:
1. Respect the steps of the polishing process.
2. Respect the drying time.
3. Respect the thickness of the layers.
4. Always place the polishing machine base on the car part then start it.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish until you reach the substrate where it first appeared the scratch and after repaint.
Definition:
Small particles of various origins (dust, lint) present in the paint film.
Causes:
1. The substrate wasn’t cleaned before painting.
2. The filter system of the painting cabin and the air supply hose are dirty.
3. Contamination of the finishing area with air from the preparation area.
How it can be avoided:
1. Degrease and clean before painting.
2. Make sure that the painting cabin is properly maintained.
3. Make sure that the finishing area are separated from the preparation area.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish for minor defects.
For major defects, polish until you reach the layer that was contaminated and after, repaint.
Definition:
Gases from the painting process that will lay on the car part that was painted or are not absorbed by the anterior applied paint.
Causes:
1. Gases are not absorbed in the anterior layer because of using a hardener or a thinner that is to fast for the painting conditions or to fast for the dimension of the painted surfaces.
2. Improper painting process.
How it can be avoided:
1. Select the right thinner and hardener for the painting environment temperature and for the dimension of the painting surface.
2. Use the recommended painting technique.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
First polish with abrasive polishing and after with luster polish.
Definition:
Mechanic damages in the paint layer due to the rock from the roads.
Causes:
Stone bumps of different dimensions.
Depending on the force with witch the stone hits the paint system can appear damages in the paint layer or in the primer-filler layer to the clean tin. Humidity will penetrate the paint film and may appear lift off’s of the hole paint system.
How it can be avoided:
There is no total protection against rock bumps.
On the surface that are exposed much often to the bumps, the paint is mixed with an elastic additive to enlarge the film elasticity.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Polish the entire affected area until reaching the products that hasn’t lift off from the car part, remake the proper painting system.
Definition:
The water traces appear as small circular whitish marks resulted as effects of the water evaporation in combination with mineral salts on the paint film. The surface from the interior of the mark is almost intact while the exterior edge of the mark is lightly raised.
Causes:
1. Insufficient drying of the paint before going out in the rain.
2. Inadequate hardener or insufficient quantity mixed.
How it can be avoided:
Make sure that the paint is applied in the right thickness (not higher) with a right quantity of hardener in order to dry properly.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
If the damage is minor clean with fresh water. If the problem is not solved polish the damaged surface.
If the damage is bigger you must polish the affected area (make sure that is well dry) and repaint.
Before beginning any other operation on a surface with old paint, we recommend realizing a Solvent Test to check if the existent paint system contains solvent sensitive paints- for this is needed a special treatment.
Solvent sensitive paints:
1. Acrylic Thermoplastic (TPA);
2. Nitro celluloses;
3. Sintetic not hardened totally;
4. Paints that presents the slow evaporating of the solvent defect from its composition.
Who the test is made:
Polish a small part of the surface that will be repaired as to identify all the systems layers.
Soak a cloth in a strong thinner (D 201 thinner) and wipe the polished surface. Analyze carefully if any of the layer softens, becomes sticky or rises. That means that the layer is solvent sensitive.
Instruction for treatment of a surface with solvent sensitive paint:
* Polishing process has to be made with one fine abrasive, much finer then the usual one and on a surface much larger.
* Do not apply putty on the polished margins of the sensitive system. Always leave clean metal between putty and the old paint.
* Apply the filler and the final paint in thin layers, leaving big aeration time between layers.
* Do not apply fillers or paints in wet/wet system.
* Where the system is solvent sensitive, is thick and extremely reactive to solvent, it has to be removed totally until you reach the clean tin before starting the repairing process.
Definition:
Damage of the paint layer as irregular swellings. ?If the sswollen paint is removed you will observe the rust on the metal surface or white rust on aluminum.
Causes:
1. Mechanic damages of the paint film that caused the humidity penetration under the paint film causing the apparition of rust under the metal substrate.
2. Weak preparation and cleaning of the metal substrate before painting.
3. Fresh rust appeared on surfaces that are just finished on being sanded.
How it can be avoided:
1. Scratches or rock blows must immediately be repaired.
2. Make sure that you clean the metal surface before painting.
3. The sanded surfaces have to be primered immediately after sanding.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
Remove the paint from the affected surface and the rust from underneath by polishing, sanding etc. Clean the surface of any trace of rust, fats, etc with degreaser. ?Apply a layer of reactive filler as fast as possible on the clean metal surface to avoid rust appearance and start applying the next products( filler, paint, lacquer).
Definition:
Marks, light or dark tracks that can be observed in the metallic paint.
Causes:
1. Non uniform applying.
2. To short aeration time between layers or before applying the lacquer.
3. The metallic base paint is applied to full or to gassy.
How it can be avoided:
1. Applying must be uniform and overlap as much as possible on the pistol pattern.
2. Respect the aeration time between layers.
3. Respect the thickness of the layers.
What can you do when you encounter this situation:
If the clouds appear in the process of applying the metallic base, they will be repaired trough the painting technique (careful and uniform applying).
If the clouds or marks became visible after applying the lacquer, then the lacquer has to be dried, polished and afterward you have to apply the metallic paint.
